Some have found their spiritual child. Like Jean Paul Gaultier who this year entrusted his house collection to Olivier Rousteing. Balmain’s much-hyped artistic director has also adopted the legendary sailor. With the same nonconformity and impertinence as his mentor, the other enfant terrible of fashion reinterprets iconic models for increasingly explosive creations. Symbol of autumn-winter 2022-2023 haute couture that revives the party.
The technique of the workshops transforms the lines of yesteryear into pop-rock looks
There is spectacularity and glamor in these parades of stage dresses whose price can reach hundreds of thousands of euros. The proof: Nicole Kidman does not hesitate to come from Hollywood to surprise and impose herself, more sparkling than ever, on the Balenciaga podium. Behind the scenes of the Jean Paul Gaultier presentation, Kim Kardashian plays with her shell breasts revisited by Olivier Rousteing. The surreal genius of Elsa Schiaparelli, the great pre-war designer, looms over haute couture.
At Dior, Fendi and Giambattista Valli, delicate know-how
Always the same flavor of commitment for the creator of Dior. This season, Maria Grazia Chiuri pays homage to Slavic cultures and Ukraine. Instead of pomp and excess, she prefers the intimate and the subtle. About the dresses that evoke popular traditions, embroidery and inlays without pearls or precious stones: the preciousness is there but without ostentation. The same refinement at Fendi, which offers light clothing. In his spicy creations, Giambattista Valli, the king of volumes, practices virtuosity. He is celebrating ten years in haute couture.
Science fiction, Belle Époque follies… fashion brings together all our cultural references
Men’s hat, long dress and cowboy boots. For Chanel, Virginie Viard combines freedom with beauty. Brilliance in a different genre: Elie Saab offers a taste of his first men’s couture collection with imperial charm. For an equally brilliant femininity, Giorgio Armani draws inspiration from the sophisticated frivolity of the 1920s. As Iris van Herpen reveals futuristic goddesses, Ovid’s “Metamorphoses” in the age of virtual worlds.