(Paris) Suits, coats, pants: The Chanel woman wears tweed in the tones of Scottish landscapes, as when Gabrielle Chanel appropriated the Duke of Westminster’s wardrobe, in a collection revealed Tuesday.
Posted on March 8
On the last day of women’s prêt-à-porter week, the show takes place in an ephemeral space in the Grand Palais whose walls are entirely covered in black and white tweed. The seats are too, like the invitation cards to the parade.
“Devoting this entire collection to tweed is an obvious tribute,” says Chanel artistic director Virginie Viard.
Named after a river of the same name on the border between England and Scotland, this Scottish material is woven from several thick woolen yarns in different colours, for a robust and windproof garment.
It was the house’s founder, Gabrielle Chanel, who had women wear tweed in the 1950s, a fabric first prized by peasants and hunters before being adopted by the English aristocracy for golf games. .
“We follow in the footsteps of Gabrielle Chanel, along the River Tweed to imagine tweeds in the colors of this landscape,” says Virginie Viard.
A pink coat mottled with blue and purple or a burgundy suit iridescent with gold evokes his misty landscapes.
Outfits are worn with oversized tights and black and beige rubber boots or boots.
Pointed toe shoes with mini stiletto heels match elegant black dresses, always with thick, high stockings.
In this autumn-winter 2022-2023 collection, Virginie Viard follows in the footsteps of Gabrielle Chanel’s history with the Duke of Westminster “and the jackets she appropriates”.
“Nothing sexier than wearing the clothes of the person you love. I am fascinated by the gesture, which is always contemporary”, emphasizes the stylist.
The men’s jackets are feminized, slightly oversized jackets.
A rare thing in this Fashion Week that takes place in the midst of the war in Ukraine and marked by dark colors, Chanel’s wardrobe -in pink, green and red- is cheerful, even striking, inspired by the England of the sixty.